Texas Comptroller of Public Accounts

Texas Comptroller of Public Accounts, Glenn Hegar

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Texas Specification No. 850-20-01

Effective Date: July 30, 1971

Reformatted: December 15, 1995




1. SCOPE: This specification establishes the minimum requirements for a first quality grade of gingham cotton cloth to be furnished in check, plaid or tartan patterns, as specified on the Invitation for Bids. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacture of clothing.

2. APPLICABLE SPECIFICATIONS AND STANDARDS: References to specifications, standards and test methods shall be to the issues in effect on the date of the Invitation for Bids.

3. DEFINITIONS: Terminology used in this specification is intended to be generic in nature and consistent with meanings that have been defined through general use and/or accepted trade practices. Where variant meanings may exist, the applicable interpretation shall be determined by the Texas Procurement and Support Services (TPASS).

3.1. COMMISSION: Texas Procurement and Support Services (TPASS).

4. REQUIREMENTS: Gingham cotton cloth furnished to this specification shall conform to the following minimum requirements:

4.1. TYPE: The material shall be of one type.

4.2. GRADE: The grade shall be that known commercially as firsts.

4.3. MATERIAL: The yarn shall be made from cotton which has been cleaned, combed, drawn and spun into single yarn for both the warp and the filling.

4.4. WEAVE: The weave shall be plain.

4.5. COLORS: The colors for the check, plaid, and tartan patterns will be specified on the Invitation for Bid as light, medium or dark. Classification of values of colors shall be in accordance with Munsell Color Standards and as specified in Table 1, Colors.



Color Group Munsell Value
Light 7, 8 and 9
Medium 4, 5 and 6
Dark 2 and 3

Color swatches shall be furnished by the bidder with his bid and shall be priced individually according to color group. Selection of colors and patterns shall be made from swatches submitted by the bidder.

The use of sulfur dyes or dyes containing elementary sulfur compounds capable of oxidization to sulfuric acid is prohibited.

4.6. COLORFASTNESS: The dyed and finished cloth shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering and light when tested in accordance with the test methods for colorfastness listed in Table 3, Tests, Paragraph 6.

4.7. SHRINKAGE: The cloth shall be pre-shrunk and shall not shrink more than two percent (2%) in either the direction of the warp or the filling when tested as specified in Table 3, Test, Paragraph 6.

4.8. FINISH: The cloth shall be yarn dyed and may be calendered. The residual sizing, finishing and other non-fibrous material content shall not exceed eight percent (8.0%) when tested as specified in Table 3, Tests, Paragraph 6.

4.9. WIDTH: The finished width of the cloth shall be 35 inches minimum, exclusive of selvages, unless otherwise specified on the Invitation for Bid. Bidder shall state width of cloth offered on the bid.

4.10. LENGTH: The cloth shall be in one continuous piece of not less than 40 yards, unless otherwise specified on the Invitation for Bids.

4.11. PUT-UP: The cloth shall be in flatfold put-up, unless otherwise specified on the Invitation for Bids.

4.12. WORKMANSHIP: The finished cloth shall be free from avoidable imperfections in manufacture and from defects or blemishes affecting the appearance or serviceability.

4.13. PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS: The finished cloth shall conform to the minimum requirements specified in Table 2, Physical Requirements, when tested as specified in Table 3, Test, Paragraph 6.



Weight Per Square Yard Finished Goods (Minimum in Ounces) Yarns Per Inch Finished Goods (Minimum) Breaking Strength

(Grab Method)

(Minimum in Pounds)

Warp Filling Warp Filling
2.9 88 52 40 25
  1. The yarns per inch may be the sum of the warp and filling which equals or exceeds 140, provided that neither warp nor filling is more than four (4) yarns under the requirements.

5. SAMPLES: Unless otherwise specified in the Invitation for Bids, no prepurchase samples shall be required. Samples tested shall be taken from regular orders.

When so specified in the Invitation for Bids, the bidder must submit a samples of the product he proposes to furnish. The sample shall be of the size, quantity, in type of container, etc., as specified in the bid invitation. Samples must be delivered prepaid prior to bid opening date to the Commission. Samples shall be tagged to show this specification number, requisition number, the name and address of the manufacturer, the name of the bidder, and the brand name, trade name, model number of the product, as applicable. Testing shall be performed on samples submitted with the bid and/or on samples taken from material supplied on regular orders.

6. TESTING: Testing shall be done by or at the direction of, the Commission and/or the receiving State agency. Tests shall be performed on products from shipments to ordering agencies. In the event products tested fail to meet or exceed all conditions and requirements of this specification, the cost of the samples used and the cost of testing shall be borne by the supplier.

6.1. TESTS: The product furnished under this specification shall be tested by the following methods or approved equally applicable procedures:



Characteristic Requirement Reference Test Method
Weave Paragraph 00.0 Visual
Weight, ounces per square yard Table 2 5041.00
Yarns per inch Table 2 5050.00
Breaking strength, pounds (Grab Method) Table 2 5100.00
Colorfastness to:
Light Paragraph 00.0 5660.00
Laundering Paragraph 00.0 5610.00
Shrinkage in laundering Paragraph 00.0 5550.00
Non-Fibrous Materials Paragraph 00.0 2611.00
  1. Test methods are those of Federal Test Method Standard No. 191, unless otherwise specified.

7. INSPECTION: Products furnished under this specification shall be inspected by, or at the direction of the Commission and/or the ordering State agency either at the destination or place of manufacture.

8. PACKING / PACKAGING: Packing for shipment shall be in accordance with the manufacturer's standard practice and in a manner readily accepted by common carriers engaged in interstate commerce. Within the shipping carton, units shall be packed in a manner designed to minimize damage during the shipment because of rough or improper handling.


9.1. MARKING: Each shipping container shall be clearly marked with:

9.1.1. Name of contents.

9.1.2. Quantity contained.

9.1.3. Order number or contract number.

9.1.4. Name and address of the manufacturer.

The container or shipping documents shall include:

9.1.5. Name and address of ordering agency.

9.1.6. Agency requisition number.

9.1.7. Name and address of the manufacturer.

9.2. LABELING: Each package of cloth shall bear a securely affixed and durable label showing the following:

9.2.1. Name of cloth.

9.2.2. Pattern of cloth.

9.2.3. Width (inches).

9.2.4. Length (total yards in package).

9.2.5. Name of manufacturer.

In lieu of package labeling, the vendor may list the information required by Paragraphs 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 above on a shipping ticket to be enclosed with the package.

10. COMPLIANCE: In order for consideration to be given to the bid on an item under this specification, the bidder must comply with the following:

10.1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION: The make, model number, name of the manufacturer, brand or trade name, etc., as applicable, of the item which the vendor proposes to furnish must be stated as part of the bid.

10.2. EXCEPTIONS: Notwithstanding the above, any exception taken by the bidder to the requirements and conditions of this specification must be stated and described in detail as a part of the bid. If no exceptions or deviations are identified in this manner, the items must be furnished exactly as described herein.

10.3. PROOF: The bidder shall bear the burden of proof of compliance with this specification.

11. ORDERING DATA: When ordering products conforming to this specification the requisitioning agency shall specify the following:

11.1. The number of this specification (850-20-01).

11.2. Width desired, if other than 35 inches specified in Paragraph 4.9.).

11.3. Total number of yards (See Paragraph 4.10.).

11.4. Pattern (s) desired: i.e. checks, plaids or tartans and number of yards of each, by color group. (See Paragraph 4.5. for information on how to specify color for the three patterns)

Note to Ordering Agencies: Extreme care should be taken in checking shipments of cloth before rejecting and returning them to the vendor. Unless the receiving checker is qualified to identify the cloth and to determine that requirements which can be checked visually are met, a qualified person from within the agency should check the shipment and determine whether or not it is acceptable.

12. AVAILABILITY OF SPECIFICATIONS: Copies of this specification may be obtained by calling or writing:

Bid Services

Texas Procurement and Support Services

P.O.Box 13186

Austin, TX 78711-3047

(512) 463-3416

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